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| Photo provided by Lauren of Castle Corsetry |
Cosplay
costuming is a skill, an art form all of its own. On my hunt for cosplay
costumiers I have come across Lauren Matesic of Castle Corsetry. We all know
how much I love a corset and the huge difference to an outfit or costume. They
help to give great shape, flow, structure and can be beautiful. I was so
excited to find someone who has such passion, flair and skill and uses this
skill to make such wonderful creations. To make my discovery of Lauren even
more exciting is that she makes a whole host of costumes with endless costuming
skill. The more I research potential costumes the more I find just how much
goes into every part, all the little details, all the hard work, craftsmanship,
time and effort. I have had the opportunity to interview Lauren. Take a read
below to learn all about her!
It began when her mom
taught her to sew at age six. Now, Lauren Matesic of Castle Corsetry has been
an award-winning designer for the past decade. After graduating from the
Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising and training at Farthingales
Corsets, Lauren broke through as a designer for the world-famous Trashy
Lingerie. There, she designed custom corset and costume orders for superstars
such as Kim Kardashian, Julianne Hough, Holly Madison, and Rose McGowan, as
well as some pieces for major award shows.
Since launching Castle
Corsetry in 2009, Lauren has designed and built hundreds of corsets ranging
from compact waist cinchers to full fledged waist-trainers in all materials
from silk to leather and everything in between.
At Castle Corsetry, we only
use the highest quality materials, and the European steel bones are the best on
the market. Though she does create classic corsets, Lauren’s most popular
designs are her pop-culture corsets featuring geek inspired designs from the
nerd world’s favorite fandoms. Castle Corsetry occasionally vends at
conventions, so follow her pages for the latest news!
In addition to her corsetry
work, Lauren has designed and manufactured many custom costume orders,
including her specialty in expertly tailored spandex suits. There’s nothing
Lauren can’t do with fabrics, whether you need miniature costumes for puppets
with her business partner at Fonco, to elaborate couture items for masquerade
balls and weddings. Executing dozens of commissions for every major convention
across the country, she has now made a name for herself in the cosplay world.
You can see some of her designs on geek-culture celebrities like Team Unicorn,
Ivy Doomkitty and Adrianne Curry!
There's no project beyond
her skill and no design beyond her imagination. As a geeky girl herself,
Lauren's enthusiasm for her work is what sets her apart. Her dedication and
attention to detail makes her designs truly exceptional. There isn't a finer,
quirkier costumer around.
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| Photo by Estrada Photography |
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| Photo by York in a Box |
What is your background in
garment construction and/or design and/or ornamentation? How long have you been
costuming for?
I’ve always been a
nerd. So every year for Halloween I wanted to dress up as my current favorite
character. So my mom and I would go out of our way to make and amazing costume
that all of my friends would be jealous of. Dress up was one of my favorite activities
as a kid, and it hasn’t stopped as an adult. I’ve always had a very active
imagination and I loved to dress up and pretend that I was from some other
world or magical realm.
How did you become involved
in cosplay/geek fashion costuming?
I really started doing
cosplay after attending San Diego Comic Con in my first Star Wars Corset. After
having so much fun dressing up in that, I decided for the next year I would
make a full costume to wear. With my friends and I decked out in costumes that
I had made, we kept getting asked where to get them, which is how my costume
making business erupted.
Have you found an increased
interest in corsets since waist training was put in the spotlight?
I’ve had some increased
interest, but modern media has a very incorrect view on what corsets are and
what waist training is. So there’s been a lot of need for me to educate my
clients before advising them on making a purchase. Waist training can be very dangerous
if done without the proper tools (ie a well-made custom fit corset) or
research.
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| Photo by ModelMosa |
Really, the quality of the materials and the layered construction are
what make a corset high quality. Make sure you have a good heavy cotton as the
base, whether that’s a twill or coutil, and also a combination of spring and
spiral steel bones. My steel bones come all the way from Germany to give
my clients the best possible quality.
What makes your corsets
different?
A lot of the store bought
“corsets” that you seen online are, in reality, just tubes of fabric with a few
pieces of boning slapped in to them. They don’t have any structure or shape to
give the female body any defined curve. It’s more like squeezing a sausage link
than creating a feminine hourglass figure. My corsets definitely shape the body
to support the breasts while cinching in the waist.
What are some of the
challenges of cosplay costuming?
A lot of times artists and
creators don’t take into account real life wear-ability. For instance, a video
game character may look really cool, but the artist won’t have built in a
zipper or closure for the character to get in and out of their costume. So as a
costume designer, we often have to troubleshoot the artist’s creations to make
it look as accurate to the artwork as possible, while still being able to wear
the costume comfortably and easily. A good seamstress will have to master
the art of invisible zippers and hidden closures to make the outside of the costume
as clean as possible.
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| Photo by Joits |
Describe some of your
favourite projects?
My all time favorite
costume that I have created was Winifred Sanderson from Hocus Pocus. It was a
crazy costume to make and by far one of the hardest, but also the one
that I am most proud of. It took me two months of nearly non
stop work to complete it. But I learned so many new skills and techniques that
it's truly is my pride and joy. It doesn't hurt that I also enjoy snarling at
small children while I wear it.
There’s always going to be
a place in my heart for any of the Playboy bunny groups. Playboy bunnies are a
popular mash-up trend for cosplay right now. My company is well known for both
Star Trek and Star Wars Playboy mash ups. As an expert in corset making, it’s
been a trend in the community that I’ve been able to thrive on and profit off
of, due to its immense popularity. While there are many tutorials and forums
online on how to make your own Playboy bunny suit, it will never compare to
having one custom made for you by an expert in the field.
Who can we see wearing some
of your work?
In the past I used to be
the Designer for celebrities for Halloween time and had clients such as Kim
Kardashian, Julianne Hough, and Holly Madison. But, now my regular clients
include Ivy Doomkitty, LeeAnna Vamp, Raychul Moore, and Adrianne Curry.
Who would you love to make
a costume for?
Ru Paul or Dita Von Teese!
They’re both goddesses to me. I would do anything to make corsets for either of
them.
Have you always had a
design/costume type in your head that you would like to fulfill?
I’ve always wanted to make
a mesh body suit, where it was just Rhinestones conveniently covering any
exposed parts. Just because I love dripping in Rhinestones.
What aspect of costume
making do you enjoy the most?
I love pattern drafting.
I’m a big math geek, and I can do geometry all day, it’s very satisfying to me
to do pattern drafting more so than sewing.
If a new cosplayer was
looking to get a costume commissioned/constructed, what should they
consider? What difference would a new performer find from off the rack to
commissioned pieces?
Off the rack costumes are
generally made in China and are of the lowest quality you can possible find.
So, while they are affordable, you will generally have an ill fitting, thin
material costume that you will almost always be disappointed in. Something from
a designer such as myself will be custom made to your measurements. I have
access to the most amazing fashion district in the world to get the highest
quality fabrics for the most accurate representation of your character.
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| Photo by Greg De Stefano Photography |
All costumiers tend to have
a style of costume/way of making or presenting their work. Can you describe
what you think makes an obvious Castle Corsetry piece?
Well, if there’s a really
well made corset in the costume, 9 times out of 10 it’s one of mine! But I’m
also an expert in spandex tailoring. When there’s a really complicated spandex
suit with a lot of pieces and designs on it I’m generally the one who can conquer
them. Most people don’t know how to work with spandex, but I revel in it!
What would you consider
important cosplay must have items?
1. A plain black corset. I
may be biased about corsets, but I really think that a good black corset is
unparalleled in it’s usefulness in cosplay. There are so many cosplays that use
corsets as a base, that to have a well made black corset is essential.
2. A good sewing machine. I
can’t tell you how many cosplayers I know use cheap sewing machines from Jo-Ann
fabrics or the like ($200 or less) I know not everyone is made of money. But if
you’re going to make this a profession or hobby, you really need to invest in a
decent machine. I’m partial to Husqvarna, a good starter machine is the Emerald
118, which runs around $400. Also, if you’re looking to do spandex and
superhero costumes you NEED a serger/overlock machine. The Zigzag stitch on a
regular machine just does not cut it!
3.Lessons! I learn more
working on the job or from friends who were more knowledgeable then I, and I
have a degree in fashion design. Surrounding yourself with friends who are more
knowledgeable than you will only hone your skills further.
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| Photo by York in a Box |
How long on average does it
take to make a costume?
I like to have 2-3 months
for costume commissions between design and production. But I can work under
tighter schedules if the client requires it. Most things can be made in a
matter of days if the materials are immediately available.
What are you most asked
for/popular items?
My Harry Potter house
themed longline corsets and mermaid leggings are probably the most popular
pieces I sell! But in terms of Cosplay, my Dark Phoenix from X-men and Mortal
Kombat costumes are probably the most sought after.
How should a cosplayer care
for their costumes?
Treat your costumes as
nicely as you would treat any formal attire. So, keep it hung up in a cool dark
closet. Don’t ever leave it in your trunk of your car for extended periods of
time. A lot of costumes have glue or other pieces that can melt, especially
here in Southern California where we are. It’s really just about treating your
costumes kindly.
What would you like to
experience in your creativity and/or your business in the near future?
I would love to be at the
point where I could hire more help or get some of my ready to wear pieces made
in local factories. Just taking more off of my own plate would be nice.
What are your long term
plans for Castle Corsetry?
While I love being in the
cosplay culture and scene, I would really love to expand upon my ready-to-wear
lingerie collections while still staying in the ‘geeky’ vein. I’ve had a lot of
design ideas tossing around in my head for while, but just not the time to
execute them as of late. I would love to expand my corset collections to include
bras, panties, garters, etc. Someday! (with all that spare time I have…)
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| Photo by ModelMosa |
I would like to
thank Lauren for her time with this interview. Visit Lauren's website to check
out more of her work. Stay tuned for more cosplay posts coming soon.
xoxo
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